≡ Menu

Wood Score Tower

The Natural’s Score Tower Instructions. These are directions for a tall score tower that is made out of wood.

Wood Score Tower Instructions

This whole scoreboard started out as my practice attempts at staining under the “Shaggy” Method. I was not sure if stain would translate the same as paint did so I used a scrap piece of lumber to try it out. To say the least the idea evolved a lot over time.

I took a scrap piece of 3/4″ plywood which happened to 41/2″ x 40 1/2″.  It was then sanded down and coated with sanding sealer. Then the outline was taped, reapplied the sanding sealer, and then stained two coats on the perimeter. I then went to a printing shop to get the numbers, which are vinyl decals.

I had them set on a grid at a 1/2″ high with a 1/4″ in gap. 22 numbers made it 33″ tall, which is about what I wanted. Laid out the numbers and then drilled holes on either side of the numbers at the half way point of the numbers.

The holes should be big enough just to fit a golf tee. Once I got to this point, I decided I had extra room at the top for another decal of the Power T (which if you are a Vols fan, it’s kinda like the holy grail of UT football). Had the print shop make two 14″ decals for my boards, and got the 2″ decal for free. What a deal!!!

For the base, I use 2×2 furring strip and cut them to the appropriate length for the base (about a 3 foot base total).

The scoreboard is about 5 1/2 feet tall overall. I formed the base by taking four separate pieces of the 2×2, and attaching them as seen in pictures 2 – 4. I used a scrap piece of the 2×2 to determine the size of the center hole, and keep the base tight.

Once the lower level of the base was done, I cut smaller pieces to extend the base up another row of 2×2. These were attached by drilling screws in from the bottom of the base and also the sides of that level. See pics 3 and 4. Another piece of 2×2 was cut to the proper height of the scoreboard tower. I then shaved the end of the post so it would fit in the center hole of the base easily.

The post is not screwed into the base, but is nothing more than a pressure fit so the base can be detached for transport or storage.

The scoreboard itself was attached directly to the post and I finally put the trim around the scoreboard to finish the edges of the plywood. All the holes were filled on the base and later sanded, primed, and painted. To say the least, the order I did this in is pretty screwed up, but that’s what happens with you mix the building process with the design process. I would definitely change the order I did things in to allow for a better product if I do this same scoreboard again.

Hope you like, Nic

DOWNLOAD & PRINT- (PDF) Wood Score Tower

Design by Cornhole Game Players Forum member By the natural